Cinque Terre
where colorful buildings carved into the mountains meet a sparkling sea
Cinque Terre is a color lover’s dream, with villages painted in shades of orange, pink, yellow and red and stacked dramatically along the Ligurian coastline. We based ourselves in Riomaggiore and explored the area by train, on foot and from the water.
Some of my favorite memories were swimming in Vernazza, eating focaccia by the beach, walking the coastal path between Riomaggiore and Manarola and ending the day on a sunset boat ride. Seeing the villages from the water, with the mountains behind them and the evening light hitting the coast, was easily one of the most beautiful parts of our time there.
EAT
Panificio Rosi
This little bakery in Riomaggiore was my favorite find in all five of the coastal towns. I got the most incredible chocolate chip focaccia and have been dreaming about it ever since.
The focaccia sells out quickly, so go early in the morning and wait patiently in line with the locals.
EAT
Batti Batti
After spending the day exploring the coast, we stopped at Batti Batti in Vernazza for focaccia. You won’t find bad focaccia in Cinque Terre, so pop into whatever shop has the shortest line.
Pro tip: take yours to the beach, find a spot by the water and settle in for a little people-watching.
SWIM
Vernazza
Vernazza has the perfect spot for a quick dip in the sea after exploring the village and climbing up toward the lookout. We changed into our swimsuits and spent some time in the chilly sea.
There are two public restrooms that cost about a euro each and can be used for changing. Otherwise, you can always do what plenty of Italians did and change behind a precariously draped towel on the beach.
EXPLORE
Via dell’Amore
We were lucky enough to visit Cinque Terre soon after Via dell’Amore reopened following extensive renovations. We chose the paved pathway between Riomaggiore and Manarola rather than one of the hiking routes, which gave us beautiful views of the coastline without turning the morning into a major hike.
Moving between the villages on foot gives you a completely different perspective than taking the train, and this stretch was an easy way to experience part of Cinque Terre’s famous trail system.
TREAT
Bottega Alimentare
Cinque Terre gets hot during the summer, but we were fortunate enough to discover lemon granite early in our stay in Riomaggiore.
Bottega Alimentare was right up the street from our Airbnb, so it was an easy stop whenever we walked through town. Cold, tart and refreshing, the lemon granita was exactly what we wanted after spending the day outside along the coast. If you want something a little less traditional, get half lemon, half strawberry.
EXPERIENCE
Sunset Boat Tour
For me, no trip to the coast is complete without some time on a boat, and our sunset tour ended up being one of the most memorable parts of Cinque Terre.
We booked a small-group experience through Airbnb that took us along the coastline, past the villages and caves, before stopping near Monterosso for a swim. From there, we headed back out onto the water for sunset. Watching the mountains and colorful villages turn golden was one of the most beautiful views of our time there.
