Malta is one of those places that feels almost impossible to describe until you’ve seen it for yourself. It’s a tiny country surrounded by some of the bluest water I’ve ever seen, yet every corner seems to have an entirely different personality. I stayed in Valletta, which ended up being the perfect home base for exploring — a city of honey-colored stone buildings, colorful enclosed balconies and doors, ornate brass knockers, and narrow streets that seem to spill toward the sea. My Airbnb was tucked inside a beautifully restored historic building, and some of my favorite moments of the entire trip were simply sitting on its rooftop terrace with coffee in the morning or a glass of wine at golden hour, looking out over the rooftops and water.

Beyond Valletta, I loved the colorful fishing village of Marsaxlokk, the quiet ancient streets of Mdina, and the dramatic cliffs surrounding the Blue Grotto, which are even more impressive from a little boat on the water. Comino completely stole the show and I loved the Blue Lagoon so much that I went twice, squeezing onto a beach chair precariously balanced among the rocks, surrounded by water so turquoise it barely looked real. If there is one thing I wouldn’t skip in Malta, it’s getting out on the water. Between the hidden caves, limestone cliffs, and clear Mediterranean sea, some of the country’s most beautiful views are the ones you can only see by boat.