Taking the Train in Italy

A few lessons learned from hauling luggage through train stations, changing plans at the last minute and spending one very crowded ride packed like sardines between Cinque Terre and Florence.

I’ve taken enough trains around Italy to have learned that there’s a little more strategy involved than simply buying a ticket and showing up at the station. Some routes are incredibly easy. Others sell out. Sometimes you’ll have plenty of room for your luggage and a window seat for a nap; other times, you’ll be standing shoulder-to-shoulder with half the tourists in Italy.

None of that would keep me from taking the train. I’d just do a few things differently.

Don’t book every train in advance

For short, easy routes with plenty of departures, I wouldn’t lock myself into a specific train unless there’s a reason to.

We learned this after a day trip to Venice. We had already purchased tickets for a specific train home, but ended up ready to leave earlier than expected. Because our tickets weren’t flexible, changing plans meant buying new ones and wasting the money we had already spent.

If I were booking one of those routes ahead of time now, I’d either choose a ticket I could change or wait until I had a better idea of when I actually wanted to leave.

But do book popular routes ahead

The opposite applies when there are fewer good options or you’re traveling a popular route.

We waited too long to book our train from Cinque Terre to Florence, and our preferred departure time sold out. We ended up taking a later train that was absolutely packed with tourists.

And I mean packed. We were like sardines for basically the entire trip.

I don’t think you need to plan every train weeks in advance, but for a route like that, I’d book at least a day ahead so you have a better chance of getting the time you want.

Pack snacks — and toilet paper

Always have something to eat and drink with you.

Trains get delayed, connections don’t always line up perfectly, and sometimes the station you’re waiting in has very little around it. A snack in your bag can make a long travel day significantly more pleasant.

I’d also keep a little toilet paper or tissues with you. Most bathrooms are perfectly fine. Some are very much not. You’ll be happy you have it when you need it.

Be prepared for stairs

The big train stations generally have elevators, but smaller stations often don’t.

That means at some point you will probably find yourself carrying your suitcase up or down a flight of stairs to reach the correct platform.

If you’re planning a trip with a lot of train travel, I would not bring a checked bag. This is one of the biggest reasons why. A carry-on is simply much easier when you’re lifting it onto trains, navigating platforms and dealing with stations that may not have an elevator.

And enjoy the ride

This is the part I think people forget.

Most of the train rides through Italy are beautiful, and you’re already spending the time getting from one place to another. Look out the window. Read. Listen to music.

Or, my personal favorite: take a train nap.

For all the occasional chaos, the stairs, the crowds, the sold-out trains, I still think there’s something pretty great about settling into your seat, watching Italy pass outside the window and knowing another city is waiting at the other end.