MY FAVORITE FINDS
Christmas markets, beautiful architecture, and all the charm of a European winter wonderland
I'd visited Vienna and Bratislava earlier in 2023 and absolutely loved both, but regretted not making it to Budapest while I was there. So, when I started planning a trip for my birthday in December, Budapest and its Christmas markets seemed like the perfect excuse to return to that part of Europe. I was originally planning to go solo, but as soon as my mom heard I'd be spending my birthday there alone, she decided to join me (I'm sure the Christmas markets didn't hurt!).
We spent our time in Budapest eating goulash and chimney cakes around the city, exploring by tram, and wandering through the Christmas markets. All I wanted out of the trip was to see snow, and I got it, which made the whole experience that much more special.
Eat & Drink
EAT
For Sale Pub
My mom is actually the one who discovered For Sale Pub, and I'm very proud of her for it. The entire restaurant is covered in handwritten notes from previous guests, pinned to the walls, ceiling, and just about every other available surface.
We had our first goulash here, sitting on little bar stools facing the street, watching people and trams go by on a cold winter night while we ate our hot goulash with warm bread.
One thing to know before ordering: the portions are enormous. I'm talking a massive bowl of goulash that could easily feed two people. Unless you’re incredibly hungry, one order should be plenty for two people.
EAT
Paprika Vendéglo
Another one of our favorite goulash stops was Paprika Vendéglo, located near Széchenyi Thermal Bath. We went here for lunch after spending the morning at the baths.
Paprika prepared its goulash differently than For Sale Pub, and we loved trying another variation of the Hungarian staple. If you're planning to visit Széchenyi, I'd recommend stopping here for lunch afterward.
EAT
nor/ma
nor/ma was the cutest little bakery and espresso shop just down the street from our Airbnb. We stopped in for croissants and espresso and got to watch the pastries being made while we were there.
We loved it so much that we went back multiple times throughout our stay and even bought pastries to eat before our early morning flight home. I'd absolutely recommend stopping here for breakfast.
TREAT
Chimney Cakes
If there's one thing you need to try in Budapest, it's a chimney cake, or kürtoskalács. They're made by wrapping dough around a cylindrical spit, coating it in sugar, and roasting it until the outside becomes golden and crispy.
Apparently they're a little touristy, but I couldn't have cared less. We ate several throughout our trip, including one filled with ice cream after dinner. My favorites were at the Christmas markets.
Things to Do
SEE
Buda Castle & Fisherman's Bastion
We took a tram across the Danube and rode the funicular up to Buda Castle before making our way over to Fisherman's Bastion. The funicular is definitely a little touristy, but I thought it was such a cute way to get up the hill, and we had our little car to ourselves.
We spent the morning exploring the castle grounds and walking over to Fisherman's Bastion, where you get beautiful views overlooking the Danube and Hungarian Parliament Building.
I'd recommend leaving yourself plenty of time to explore this area rather than rushing between the landmarks. There's a lot to see, and some of the best views of Budapest are from this side of the river.
SEE
Hungarian Parliament Building
The Hungarian Parliament Building is one of the most beautiful buildings in Budapest, and we spent quite a bit of time admiring and photographing it throughout our trip.
We didn't tour the interior, but we walked around the outside and saw it from across the Danube, where you can really appreciate the scale and architecture. I'd recommend seeing it from both sides of the river. It's also particularly beautiful illuminated after dark.
RELAX
Széchenyi Thermal Bath
Visiting Széchenyi Thermal Bath was one of my favorite experiences in Budapest, and it's the one thing I'd schedule differently if I were planning our trip again. We saved it for our last full day, but I think it would be the perfect activity for your first day, or even the afternoon you arrive if the timing works. It's a relaxing way to ease into a trip when you're tired and fighting jet lag.
The outdoor pools are surrounded by these enormous yellow buildings, and the whole place is beautiful. One of my favorite parts was seeing the older Hungarian men playing chess in the water.
We booked our tickets online and paid for private changing cabins so we'd have somewhere to change and leave our belongings. The cabins are tiny, almost like little bathroom stalls, and operate using electronic wristbands. Somehow, I managed to lock myself inside mine and couldn't get out. My mom had to find an attendant, who didn't speak English, and explain through hand gestures that I was trapped. Eventually we figured out how the wristbands worked and freed me from the cabin. So, learn from my mistakes and pay attention to the wristband instructions!
I'd recommend booking online ahead of time, considering a private changing cabin if you're uncomfortable with communal changing areas, and bringing your swimsuit, towel, and slippers. I've also included a photo of the changing area so you know what to expect.
EXPLORE
Central Market Hall
I love visiting markets when I travel, so Budapest's Central Market Hall was an easy addition to our plans.
The market is housed in a beautiful historic building filled with food vendors and stalls selling everything from produce to souvenirs. We explored it on our last day in Budapest, but you could easily combine a visit with a meal at For Sale Pub, which is directly across the street.
EXPERIENCE
Christmas Markets
The Christmas markets were one of the main reasons we visited Budapest, and they were everything I'd hoped they'd be.
We visited four different markets during our stay, each with something different to offer. If you're visiting during the holiday season, I'd absolutely recommend making time for them.
I've shared more about each market, including what to eat and a few tips for planning your visits, in my guide to Budapest's Christmas Markets.
WANDER
Budapest After Dark
One of my favorite things about Budapest was walking around in the evenings. My mom and I both love staying out late when we travel, wandering around under the yellow glow of the street lights. Given the time of the year we visited Budapest, the sun set extremely early so we were able to explore after dark and still make it to bed at a reasonable hour.
Getting Around
We used Budapest's trams constantly throughout our trip, and I loved being able to see the city as we traveled around. Download BudapestGO before your trip to plan routes and purchase tickets. If you're using single tickets, make sure you validate them for your journey—buying them isn't enough. And yes, they do check!
