The Airbnb that Changed the Way I Travel
The Short Version
A sun-filled Haussmann-style apartment in Paris's 14th arrondissement, with original herringbone floors, marble fireplaces, antique furnishings, and unexpected pops of neon pink artwork. Between the beautiful interiors, charming neighborhood, and an afternoon nap I'll never forget, this remains one of my favorite Airbnbs I've ever stayed in.
Location: Paris, France
Sleeps: Up to 4
Layout: One bedroom with a second bed in the living room, one bathroom with bathtub and handheld shower, and separate toilet room.
Perfect for: Couples, small families, girls’ trips, and anyone that doesn’t mind sharing sleeping areas.
Highlights: Haussmann-style architecture, artwork created by the host, enormous French windows with balconies, and a quiet residential neighborhood with a wonderful bakery around the corner.
When my mom and I started planning our trip to Paris, I found an Airbnb that I absolutely fell in love with. It was a gorgeous Haussmann-style apartment with herringbone wood floors, enormous windows, marble fireplaces, and the most interesting mix of antique furnishings and contemporary artwork. It was everything I imagined a Parisian apartment should look like. There were just two problems: it was more expensive than the other apartments we were considering, and it had hardly any reviews. It had all of three at the time, and there weren't even that many pictures. Considering this would only be my second Airbnb stay ever, booking it felt like a pretty big risk. We continued looking and even booked another apartment, but I couldn't get this one out of my head. Unfortunately for my mom, once I get fixated on something, there's usually very little chance of convincing me otherwise. Eventually, we canceled our other reservation and decided to take the chance. I'm so glad we did.
We arrived in Paris in August, expecting the weather to be a little chilly. Why we thought Paris would be chilly in August, I couldn't tell you, but we soon discovered how wrong we were. After taking the train into the city, we decided to walk the rest of the way to the apartment. It didn't look very far on the map, but we'd failed to consider how much more difficult walking becomes when you're dragging suitcases across cobblestone streets. By the time we reached the building, we were both sweating and ready to put our luggage down.
Our host, Marc, met us inside the beautiful stone apartment building with ornate architectural details and enormous front doors. We took the elevator up to the apartment, where he welcomed us inside and gave us a tour. The apartment looked just as beautiful as it had in the photos, with soaring ceilings, herringbone floors, and sunlight pouring through the enormous windows. As Marc showed us around, he explained that he was an artist and that the contemporary paintings throughout the apartment were his own work. He used the space as a studio for part of the year and spent the rest of his time at another home outside Paris, which was why the apartment wasn't always available to rent. He was a wonderful host, taking time to answer our questions and explain everything before leaving us to settle in. He even messaged me on WhatsApp shortly afterward to make sure we were happy with the apartment, and I assured him that we were.
Life in the 14th Arrondissement
One of my favorite things about the trip was the little routine we developed in our neighborhood. The apartment was in the 14th arrondissement, just off Rue d'Alésia, in a quiet residential area without many tourists. Every morning, we walked down to the bakery on the corner to try a different pastry. We were determined to try all the different kinds of pastries, and by the end of our stay, we had a favorite pastry and a favorite metro line. The staff eventually recognized us, and they were incredibly patient as we attempted to order in our terrible French. We'd sit outside with our pastries, watching people come and go, enjoying the feeling of being a “regular.” One afternoon, I sat on the balcony with a book and an espresso, enjoying the sunshine and watching the people walk by. Everything about the neighborhood felt like the Paris I'd hoped to experience.
But the memory I associate most with this apartment has nothing to do with sightseeing, pastries, or even the beautiful architecture. One afternoon, after spending hours walking around the city, my mom and I came back to the apartment to rest. She went into the bedroom, and I curled up on the vintage couch in the living room. We'd left the enormous French windows open, and I fell asleep with the fresh air coming in from the street.
When I woke up, sunlight was streaming through the windows, filling the room with this beautiful golden light. The curtains were blowing in the breeze, and I could hear birds chirping outside, along with the occasional sounds of cars passing on the street below. I remember lying there on the couch for a while, taking it all in and feeling completely content. It was one of those moments when I didn't feel like I needed to be anywhere else or doing anything else. I was just so happy to be there, in that apartment, in Paris. My mom had apparently had an equally wonderful nap in the bedroom, and when we got up, we couldn't stop talking about how well we'd both slept. We still bring up those naps years later, which makes me laugh because we spent ten days in Paris doing all sorts of wonderful things, and somehow an afternoon spent sleeping is one of the memories we both remember so fondly.
Looking back, I think that apartment had a lot to do with why I started choosing Airbnbs differently. Until then, accommodations had been more of a practical part of planning a trip. I wanted somewhere comfortable, clean, and conveniently located, but I hadn't really considered how much the actual apartment could contribute to the experience. After Paris, I started paying more attention to the places I booked and looking for properties with interesting architecture, beautiful interiors, or something unique about them. I realized how much I enjoyed having a place I actually wanted to come home to at the end of the day. That preference eventually became part of the inspiration for the Standout Stays collection on The Getaway Guide, although I'll save the rest of that story for another time.
Inside the Apartment
The apartment was spacious, with high ceilings, original herringbone wood floors, ornate moldings, and marble fireplaces. The walls were mostly white, although several had this beautiful distressed finish where it looked like an older wall treatment had been stripped away, revealing layers of warm brown tones underneath. Marc had decorated with an interesting mix of antiques, vintage furnishings, and his own modern artwork. Most of the apartment was fairly neutral, which made the neon pink elements in his paintings stand out even more. I especially loved that he hadn't tried to make everything match. There were antique desks, stacks of coffee table books, artwork leaning against the walls, and a hutch filled with enormous pieces of blue-and-white French china. The apartment had so much character without feeling cluttered or overly decorated.
The main living spaces were two large adjoining rooms connected by a set of beautiful French doors. One was arranged as a dining room, with a round table for four beneath a chandelier, a fireplace, several desks, and tall windows opening onto a narrow street-facing balcony. The other was the living room, furnished with a vintage couch, antique pieces, and another set of enormous windows opening onto a balcony. Both rooms received wonderful natural light, and when the windows were open, a breeze would move through the apartment. We spent quite a bit of time in these rooms, whether we were having coffee, planning what to do that day, or just enjoying being home for a little while.
Although the listing had two sleeping areas, only one was a traditional bedroom. The second bed was tucked into the back corner of the living room, with a mattress resting on the floor. I'll admit that it's a somewhat unusual arrangement, but I was perfectly happy sleeping there. The mattress was comfortable, the linen bedding was luxurious, and I had those enormous windows nearby. The one thing I didn't love was the pillows, although I'd brought my own, so it wasn't much of a problem. There were also curtains between the living and dining rooms that could be drawn for privacy. We never bothered since it was just my mom and me, but it's something to consider if you're traveling with people who prefer completely separate bedrooms.
My mom stayed in the main bedroom at the end of the hallway. It had large windows overlooking the interior courtyard, a fireplace tucked into the corner, and one of my favorite details in the apartment: a gigantic pink paper parasol standing over the bed. It was such an unusual decorative piece, and I loved how it brought this unexpected burst of color into an otherwise neutral room. Between the parasol in the bedroom and Marc's neon pink artwork in the living areas, there were little surprises throughout the apartment that made it feel so personal.
The kitchen was small and fairly simple, with terracotta floor tiles and a window overlooking the courtyard. It had the basic appliances, a refrigerator, and everything we needed for coffee and breakfast. The bathroom was also on the smaller side, with a sink and a bathtub fitted with a handheld shower attachment. There wasn't a traditional wall-mounted showerhead, which I know might be inconvenient for some people. A separate toilet room was located near the entrance to the apartment, so one of us could use the toilet while the other was getting ready.
What to Know Before Booking
As much as I loved this Airbnb, I'll be the first to admit that it probably wouldn't suit everyone. The most significant consideration is that there is no air conditioning. We stayed in August, and although it was considerably warmer than we'd expected, we didn't have much trouble keeping comfortable. There were fans throughout the apartment, and with the tall windows open, we got a good breeze. I should probably mention that we'd also brought the wrong converter for our hair tools, so neither of us was blow-drying or curling our hair for the entire trip. That may have worked in our favor when it came to the temperature, although I wouldn't necessarily recommend repeating that mistake.
The apartment also doesn't have a television, which didn't bother me at all. I mean, you're in Paris. Between the lack of air conditioning, the handheld shower, and the unconventional second sleeping area, I can see why some travelers might prefer something a little more modern. There's also the matter of the very slow elevator, although my mom and I managed to turn that into entertainment. She'd take the elevator while I raced up the stairs to see who could reach the apartment first. I usually won, which probably tells you everything you need to know about the elevator's speed.
If you're persnickety about your accommodations and need air conditioning, a television, a traditional shower, and a conventional bedroom setup, this probably isn't the place for you. But if you appreciate historic architecture, interesting interiors, and staying in a neighborhood where you can experience a little bit of everyday Parisian life, I think you'd love it. And frankly, if those little quirks are enough to put you off, it's your loss, because this is still one of the best Airbnbs I've ever stayed in.
I've stayed in quite a few Airbnbs since that trip, including some absolutely beautiful properties, but this Paris apartment remains one of my favorites. I'm not sure I'll ever forget those enormous windows, the pink artwork, the bakery down the street, or the afternoon my mom and I both had the most wonderful naps. And if I ever have the chance to stay there again, I absolutely will.
Book your Parisian escape here.