Ottavia at the Roman Forum: Our Rome Airbnb in the Ancient Ruins
The Airbnb That Made Our Chaotic First Trip to Italy Worth It
The Short Version
A large, design-forward loft apartment in Rome's Jewish Quarter. I loved the modern interior inside the historic building, the entrance beside the ruins, and the quiet location just across the river from Trastevere.
Location: Rome, Italy
Sleeps: Up to 4
Layout: Two bedrooms (one enclosed, one lofted), 1.5 bathrooms, and an open living area.
Perfect for: Couples, families with older children, and groups of friends.
Highlights: A washer and dryer (a lifesaver after a rainy day), sleek kitchen, and unique design.
In 2022, while I was home for Thanksgiving, my mom and I somehow got the idea to go to Italy. We started looking at flights, and about 48 hours later, we were on our way to Rome. Neither of us had a travel credit card. I hadn't learned a word of Italian or thought to download Google Translate. We weren't even entirely sure how we were going to spend money once we got there. For all intents and purposes, it was our first time planning a trip to Europe, and we were flying by the seat of our pants.
The chaos started as soon as we landed in Milan. There was a train strike, which was news to us because we didn't even know train strikes were something we should look out for. The train we needed from the airport into the city had been canceled, and everyone was trying to get onto the replacement buses. We waited in a line that seemed to go on forever, with people pushing and shoving to get aboard. Just as we reached the front, it looked like we weren't going to make the cut. So I went over to the woman directing everyone and begged her to let us on. We had a train to catch to Rome, and I was fairly certain our entire plan was about to fall apart. To everyone’s surprise, she let us on.
Getting to Milan's train station was only half the battle. We still had to decipher the departure board, figure out our tickets and find the right platform. But eventually we made it onto a train to Rome before the strike shut down more service. I refused to relax until the train actually pulled out of the station. The second it did, I could have cheered. Then I took one of the best naps of my life, waking up occasionally to catch glimpses of the rolling Tuscan countryside outside. Even in between bouts of sleep, I knew I was going to love Italy.
We arrived in Rome that afternoon, exhausted, and made another questionable decision: we would walk from the train station to our Airbnb in the Jewish Quarter. It was about a mile and a half, it was raining, and our cheap suitcases were not designed for Rome's cobblestone streets. We dragged them through winding streets and alleyways, getting progressively wetter and more miserable as we tried to figure out where we were going. By the time we finally found the apartment, we were soaked.
A Grand Entrance
Our building sat right beside a set of ancient stone ruins. To get to the front door, we had to cross a little bridge with the ruins below us. People were stopping to take pictures, and we were casually rolling our suitcases past them to go inside. I thought it was the coolest thing. All that effort to get there suddenly felt worth it and we hadn't even seen the apartment yet.
First, we had to get upstairs. The building didn't have an elevator, and the apartment was several floors up, so we hauled our bags up yet another set of stairs. Then we discovered our next challenge: the door lock. Apparently, European keys can require several turns and a little finesse. We had neither experience nor finesse at that point. We read the instructions, tried again, reread the instructions and even sent the host a video to ask what we were doing wrong. Eventually, we got it open.
After our ridiculous travel day, we did what any exhausted people would do: changed out of our wet clothes, fired up the Nespresso machine and took a nap. The Nespresso quickly became my favorite amenity. My mom was less enthusiastic about the espresso, which just meant more for me. Later, we crossed the river into Trastevere, found a pizza place and demolished two pizzas before wandering around in search of gelato.
We'd planned to get up early the next morning to see Rome. Instead, we slept so well that neither of us woke up until about 10. We had our coffee, got dressed and finally went out to explore. It rained for most of our three-night stay, which turned out to be one of the reasons I loved having this apartment so much. When we'd had enough of being cold and wet, we'd come home, throw our clothes in the dryer, make another coffee and curl up on the couch until we were ready to go out again. It was the best setup for three very rainy days in Rome.
Inside the Airbnb
The original apartment was an enormous, high-ceilinged space, with old wood overhead and original architectural details. Someone had taken that room and built an entire modern second level into it using a metal structure and staircase. There was a sleek kitchen tucked underneath the upper floor, with colorful pendant lights hanging above the dining table. Off to the right, the living room opened all the way up to the original ceiling, with big windows, a couch, chairs and a TV. It was modern and a little funky, but you were still very aware that you were inside an old Roman building.
Up the metal stairs were the two sleeping areas. I took the loft overlooking the living room, which had motorized shades that lowered across the opening when I wanted to go to bed. My mom had the separate bedroom with an actual door. Parts of its raised floor were see-through, so you could look down through the structure. It was such a strange, cool design detail. There was also an upstairs bathroom with a shower, plus a second bathroom downstairs with the washer and dryer.
That stay was one of the reasons I fell in love with finding interesting Airbnbs. It was our first real Airbnb experience abroad, and I still talk about it years later. I've been back to Rome and stayed somewhere else, but that has nothing to do with this apartment. I just happen to be the kind of person who wants to try a new Airbnb every time I go somewhere. I've recommended this one to plenty of people, and I'd stay here again without hesitation.
A Note Before Booking
I stayed at this Airbnb in 2022 and had a wonderful experience. However, several more recent guest reviews mention unexpected charges for linens on the second bed and concerns about communication with the host. Neither was an issue during my stay, but I'd encourage you to read the latest reviews carefully before booking.
Looking for somewhere to stay in Rome?
I've saved this property and more on my Italy Airbnb wishlist.